Celery: Braised Celery, Mushrooms, and Leeks; Waldorf Salad; Mean Green Juice

Celery is a vegetable in the same family as carrots, fennel and parsley, that in the U.S. is traditionally used during the winter holidays or as a diet aid. Children in the U.S. become familiar with celery because of the numerous delicious spreads that these half-tubes hold. Things like peanut butter, cream cheese, pimento cheese, and canned Cheeze Whiz mask the bitterness of the vegetable and make it more palatable to young taste buds. But, most kids will eat out the gooey spread, tossing the vegetable aside. It’s the astringent and bitter qualities that make kids, as well as many adults, dislike the vegetable.

The whole celery plant is edible: leaves, stalks, and root, also know as celeriac (a much milder tasting option). Older tougher leaves can be unpleasant and numbing to the tongue when eaten alone. However, chopped finely and tossed in any number of salads the bitterness adds a nice depth of flavor that’s often missing from mild lettuce leaves alone.

Celery is rarely eaten as a cooked side dish in the U.S. France is the only country that comes to mind that serves celery by itself; usually braised. Of course, there’s also the stir-fry dishes at most Chinese restaurants with more chunks of celery than meat, or anything else. Most likely because it’s so inexpensive. Chinese celery is often the preferred vegetable in these stir-fry dishes, but it’s not as easy to find in most grocery stores outside of major cities and their Chinatowns.

Celery has become a cliché with women and dieting. Often advertisers, when promoting a new diet product, will use the image of a woman eating a stalk of celery as the woman’s only known form for losing weight. It’s a misnomer that one will burn more calories eating a stalk of celery than the stalk contains – that it has a “negative” calorie effect in our diet. That celery is low caloric is not the only reason for eating it, or for that matter eating most vegetables and fruits. Raw celery does have only 8 calories per cup and is made up of mostly fiber and water, but it’s also a source of vitamins A, B, C, and E, potassium and calcium. Plus, the bitterness of celery is an astringent, which makes it a good diuretic, especially when concentrated and drunk in fresh juice form. So even though it might be a cliché, celery is a great vegetable for weight-loss when incorporated into a responsible diet plan.

The most common preparation for celery is to sauté it with onions and carrots, also called mirepoux or soffritto, when creating a soup or a base for a sauce. In Louisiana, the Holy Trinity of cooking consists of celery, onions, and peppers (red, green, or yellow). The bitterness of celery is mellowed and mingles with the sweetness of the carrots or peppers and the strong sulfuric qualities of the onion.

Storing celery in a plastic bag in the fridge will keep it crisp for a week or two. If the stalks become limp, however, don’t toss it away, just yet. Celery, like many vegetables, will rehydrate within an hour or two. Cut ¼ – ½ inch off the base end and place the celery in a glass of clean, cold, water. The stalks will drink up the water and become very firm. You can then use the newly hydrated stalks for cooking or just to munch on as a quick and healthy snack.



Sweet Onions & Sour Cherries, Jeannette Ferrary and Louise Fiszer

Vegetables, James Peterson

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Braised Celery, Mushrooms, and Leeks

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 leek, cleaned and sliced thinly
6 ounces button mushrooms, halved, or quartered if large
5-6 celery stalks, strings of the celery peeled (optional), cut into 1” pieces
2 tablespoons Vermouth
2-4 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon butter
salt & pepper
chili flakes (optional)

In a sauté pan over medium heat, add the olive oil then add the sliced leek and sauté for 3-4 minutes or until the leek is starting to wilt. Add the button mushrooms, season with a small pinch of salt, and sauté for 4-5 more minutes or until the mushrooms and leeks begin to brown. Scrape the pan often. Add the celery and sauté for 4-5 more minutes.

Deglaze the pan by adding the Vermouth and scraping the bottom of the pan. Add 2 tablespoons water and add the butter in small amounts over the vegetables. Season with a little more salt, a few grinds of pepper, and a small pinch of chili flakes, if using. If the pan becomes dry, add 1-2 more tablespoons of water and scrape the bottom. Cook for 2-3 minutes or until the celery is tender.

Waldorf Salad

5-6 celery stalks, cut into ½” pieces
1 medium apple, Granny Smith preferably, cored and cut into ½” pieces
1/4 cup whole fat yogurt
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/3 cup toasted walnuts
2 tablespoons tarragon, finely chopped
2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped
salt & pepper
whole butter lettuce leaves, or other lettuce
Optional: 1/2 cup chopped cooked chicken or turkey (not deli meat)

In a medium bowl, add the celery, apple, and lemon juice, stir. Add the yogurt, mayonnaise, tarragon, and parsley; stir to combine. Add the walnuts and season with a few pinches of salt and a few grinds of pepper. Add the chopped cooked chicken or turkey if using.

To serve, place a whole lettuce leaf on a plate and scoop a generous portion of the apple and celery salad on top.

Mean Green Juice

2 Servings

4 – 5 celery stalks
1/2 cucumber
3 – 4 collard green leaves* (alternately use, kale or chard)
parsley, small bunch

Alternate the celery and cucumber with the collard green leaves and parsley in a high power juicer. Drink immediately.

*Use 8-10 ribs instead of using the whole leaves. Reserve the leaves for sautéing and cooking.

America Eats Tavern

America Eats!

We love Jose Andres’ PBS cooking show, Made in Spain. It was a big inspiration for our trip last year to Spain. Jose and his food are amazing. Jose Andres is a product of Spain’s El Bulli, the once leader in molecular gastronomical cooking, and a master of all things Spanish nouveau. Jose’s approach to food captures the imagination and we’ve been hankering for a seat at one of his many tables since first seeing his program.

Our recent trip to Washington D.C. gave us the opportunity to try Jose’s interpretation of a number of classic American dishes at the former spot of his Café Atlantico. Currently flying the banner of America Eats Tavern, the effort is a partnership of Andres’ ThinkFoodGroup and The Foundation for the National Archives. Opened on the 4th of July 2011, the effort will run a full year, closing on the 4th of July 2012. We recommend you get there sooner than later!

Day One, Lunch: Hush puppies, root beer & ginger ale, Waldorf salad, and Maine lobster roll with housemade potato chips.

We liked the menu so much, we ate at America Eats Tavern twice over a long weekend. In round one, we kicked things off with Hush Puppies with homemade sorghum butter. Sorghum is generically sweet – sweeter than molasses and less minerally. The staple grain is refined to produce sweet syrup. We live in California and grew up in the Mountain West and we don’t know from sorghum, so this was an interesting treat.

A damn good crab cake.

Waldorf Salad, adapted from Oscar Tschirky’s 1893 creation, followed and while tasty, we thought it would have been better made with crisper, sweeter apples and celery, or at least celery leaves, instead of just an “essence” of celery. Sometimes the whole molecular cooking thing needs to be pared back a bit. This is one of those cases.

Chesapeake Crab Cakes were close to perfection with their toasty crust and pure crabmeat composition. We’re used to Dungeness crab in San Francisco but we thoroughly enjoyed the blue crab from the East Coast. The cake wasn’t gloopy with mayonnaise, it was just meat with a little seasoning. The way it should be. We shared a single generously portioned cake, but the glutton in each of us could have downed a whole one. They were very good.

And that Maine Lobster Roll! Let’s just say that while rich and satisfying, we could have eaten another and not felt bad about it. Thank goodness for Mr. Rockefeller’s mistake in eating a bowl of soup relegated to the status of servant fair. What was once a food considered “demeaning,” lobster has become one of the great oceanic delicacies and we couldn’t be happier about it. Served with housemade potato chips, this was a dish that will haunt us for years to come.

We washed all the savory stuff down with housemade ginger beer and Abita Root Beer from Louisiana. The meal ended with Pecan Pie, a tribute to George Washington’s love of the nut, and coffee with chicory a la Café du Monde (New Orleans).

Jelly donuts?

We returned for Sunday brunch to continue the trip through the restaurant’s Americana-inspired menu. This time, we started with Homemade Donuts with Blackberry Jam. Light and not overly sweet, these donuts paired nicely with the tart jam.

Next we dove into Vermicelli Prepared Like Pudding, an early American take on mac n’ cheese. We loved this surprising dish for its garlicy, buttery richness and the absence of soupy cream sauce. The accompanying intensely flavored mushrooms burst with big flavor. We were glad for the modest portion.

If you haven’t eaten grits, you must. The Shrimp ‘N’ Anson Mills Grits with a Fried Egg pays homage to 1607 Jamestown. The grits, milled from heirloom corn, is a reminder of early Native American contributions to the colonists’ subsistence. These grits are creamy and not too sweet, setting a nice neutral palette for the fresh briny shrimp and smoky bacon. And that egg. It was poached alright – poached in olive oil. The result was nothing short of delicious with the crispy fried egg on the outside, creamy yolk on the inside!

Brunch: Shrimp and grits, oyster po'boy, and vermicelli prepared like pudding.

In keeping with the prior visit’s classic sandwich theme, we jumped at the chance to order the Oyster Po’Boy. The sandwich came filled with lightly battered, crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside oysters on a roll. Served with a little mayo, a tomato slice and a bit of lettuce, this New Orleans original was delicious. The oysters were fresh and sweet. The nicely seasoned batter held the mollusks together without overwhelming the delicate oyster meat.

Even though we started the brunch with donuts, we also opted for dessert. This time, the kitchen’s take on Erma Rombauer’s (of Joy of Cooking fame) Pineapple Upside Down Cake. The pineapple puree-topped cake was accompanied by vanilla bean flecked Chantilly cream and Bachelor’s Button petals. The dish was both delicious and beautiful. This is a must try!

The beverage offerings include nearly forgotten shrubs, squashes, phosphates and lactarts. Think vinegar and fruit juice with sparkling water, maybe some milk (lactart). These drinks are dry and clean and slight on sweetness. They provide a nice alternative to beer and wine as their subtle flavors tend not to compete with the flavors of the dishes they’re paired with.

There's always room for desert. Pineapple upside down cake and pecan pie.

On both our visits to the restaurant we sat upstairs, surrounded by restored vintage posters and a James Beard saying. “I don’t like gourmet cooking or “this” cooking or “that” cooking. I like good cooking.” Jose Andres’ American rendition of classic favorites represents good cooking, but it would also be considered fancy cooking, sadly, in our day and age when portions are huge and fast food is abundant. “Typical” American food is now a far cry from what it once was. We’re grateful to Jose Andres for bringing back good American cooking and reminding us that American food is much more than a cheap hamburger and fries. If anyone needs a refresher on how great American cooking once was, and still can be, just sit back and enjoy this Spanish-American’s spin on vintage American cuisine. Viva Jose!