More S’mores

Because we didn’t go camping this year we weren’t able to have one of our favorite summer treats, s’mores.  As everyone knows, s’mores are as essential to the camping experience as camp fires and tents. It’s just not the same without them. I’ve been thinking about ways to bring the tasty treats inside and out of the woods. Why shouldn’t you be able to eat a s’more when ever you want, right out of the cookie jar? And why can’t the s’more become a cookie that’s meant to be enjoyed year round instead of just during the summer?

Breaking down the concept of a s’more cookie is fairly simple when you’re talking about three easy ingredients: marshmallows, graham crackers and chocolate. But how many people do you know who make their own marshmallows and graham crackers? For a couple of years, I’ve been making incredibly soft marshmallows that are easy to whip up. With a little patience and chemistry these soft airy confections come out tasting like sugary clouds, putting to shame any commercially made bag of marshmallows from the grocery store. Even though they take time to make, once you’ve tasted these babies you’ll never want to pick up a store-bought bag again. I found this recipe in a Martha Stewart Christmas Magazine but it’s also on her site.

As for the grahams, I’ve been eyeing Kim Boyce’s graham recipe from her book Good to the Grain, a collection of recipes using whole-grain flour and a new favorite in our reference library. I picked up the book last spring. We’ve tried a few of Kim’s recipes with great success and the only thing holding me back from making her graham crackers was a shortage of retail sellers of Teff flour. I couldn’t even find it at the local super crunchy co-ops. A trip to Whole Foods was all it took.  Teff flour has a malty taste to it that compliments the earthy graham flour. The finished crackers taste exactly like the graham crackers I grew up on, only a little better.

While I might be a few months behind the rest of the country where people enjoy s’mores throughout the summer, including national S’more’s day on August 10, in my defense we San Franciscans are just getting our predictably few warm “summer” days. And even with the unusually warm weather this week we were a little too busy in the city with Halloween, the Giants winning the World Series and a parade that brought a million people to the streets celebrating San Francisco’s first series win. Congratulations Giants! So now we have to play catch-up with the rest of you. Let’s hope the warm weather keeps for another weekend or two. We think once you try these s’mores you’ll want to enjoy them at home year round.

Summer camp in a jar.

Marshmallows

Adapted from: Candy-Cane Marshmallows – Martha Stewart Holidays

Makes forty-eight 1 ½ inch squared marshmallows

Vegetable-oil cooking spray

2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon light corn syrup
2 teaspoons vanilla
4 packages (1/4 ounce each) unflavored gelatin
2 large egg whites

Directions

  1. Coat a half sheet cake pan with cooking spray; line bottom with parchment paper. Coat the parchment with cooking spray, and set pan aside. Put sugar, corn syrup, and 3/4 cup water in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until sugar is dissolved. Stop stirring; let mixture come to a boil. Raise heat to medium-high; cook until mixture registers 260 degrees on a candy thermometer.
  2. Meanwhile, sprinkle gelatin over 3/4 cup water in a heatproof bowl; let stand 5 minutes to soften. Set the bowl with the gelatin mixture over a pan of simmering water; whisk constantly until gelatin is dissolved. Remove from heat, and stir in vanilla; set aside.
  3. Beat egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment until stiff (but not dry) peaks form. Whisk gelatin mixture into sugar mixture; with mixer running, gradually add to egg whites. Mix on high speed until very thick, 12 to 15 minutes.
  4. Pour mixture into lined pan. Using an off set spatula sprayed with cooking spray, spread out the marshmallow fluff into every corner. Moving the spatula in one direction at a time and not swirling it helps keep it uniformed. Spray another piece of parchment paper with cooking spray and place over the top. Allow at least three hour, or preferably overnight, to set up.
  5. Remove from pan; score marshmallow by 1 ½ inch squared and cut.

Grahams

From Kim Boyce’s Good to the Grain

Dry Mix:

1 cup graham flour
½ cup teff flour
¾ cup all-purpose flour
½ cup dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

Wet Mix:

3 ounces (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
¼ cup honey
1 tablespoon unsulphured (not blackstrap) molasses
1/3 cup whole milk

  1. Sift the dry ingredients into a large bowl. Whatever remains in the bottom of the sifter add to the bowl. (Kim discards what’s in the bottom, but I add it to the bowl.)
  2. In a medium bowl whisk together the wet ingredients. Add the wet ingredient to the dry ingredients and mix until formed, using your hands is a good trick. Form the dough into a square and wrap in plastic and chill for at least one hour or overnight.
  3. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and line two cookies sheets with parchment or silpat. Lightly dusting your work surface with flour, roll the graham dough into a square shape, rotating the dough as you roll to assure the dough does not stick. Roll the dough out to about 1/8 inch thick. Using a ruler or a yardstick, cut into 1 ½ x 1 ½ inch squares.  Transfer the cookies to the prepared baking sheets.
  4. Bake the cookies for 15 to 17 minutes, rotating the pans after the first 8 minutes. The edges will be a little browner than the rest of the cookies but be careful not to burn the cookies or under bake them. The dark brown of the cookie dough can be a little tricky to judge at first. Allow to cool on baking racks until the marshmallows are cut and the chocolate is melted.

Finishing the S’mores

Place a rack on each of a two baking sheets and put 24 cookies on each rack. Place a marshmallow on top of each cookie. Drizzle the melted chocolate over each marshmallow cookie allowing some parts of the marshmallow to remain bare. Allow the chocolate to set up for five minutes and then place the rest of the grahams on top of each marshmallow.  The grahams may not  all be perfect, and neither will the marshmallows, so selecting the right cookie with the right marshmallow will make the cookies look their best. Allow the chocolate to set up before placing in a cookie jar.

Making Whoopie …Pies that is!

There always seems to be some trend shaking up the pastry world. A few years ago cupcakes were all the rage leading to a number of bakeries that specialize in these one-person cakes. A few bakeries even specialize in miniature cupcakes. You can’t throw a stick these days without hitting one of the thousands of purveyors of the little snack turned must have desert thanks in no small part to Sex in the City and its feature of Magnolia Bakery in New York. And every food blogger on earth has championed an endless array of variations on a theme. We love cupcakes, but we’re ready to move on.

After vacationing in Paris this spring where we noshed on the most exquisite macaron, we kept thinking the macaron’s time had come. The French macaron now seems to be popping up everywhere in San Francisco, from Miette Patisserie to La Boulangerie to Patisserie Philippe and Paulette Macarons.  We happily jumped on the bandwagon dedicating a blog post to these wonderful creations.

And now we’re starting to think the next trend in San Francisco might just be the Whoopie pie. The Whoopie pie originates from Pennsylvania Amish country. According to Wikipedia, the Whoopie pies were made by Amish woman and included in men’s lunch boxes. When the fellows found the pies they exclaimed, “Whoopie!” And who wouldn’t shout “Whoopie” if they found one of these huge pastries in their lunch pail? The pies are actually two soft, cake-like, cookies smooshed together with a big dollop of frosting in the middle. Yum!

Jason made a batch of Whoopie pies a couple of weeks ago for our second wedding anniversary. They were supposed to be dessert for a party that unfortunately fell through. There was way too much going on that weekend; Steve’s law school reunion, Hardly Strictly Bluegrass, work, etc. But Jason made the pies anyway with the hopes that Steve would take them into his office. After one bite, Steve decided they were too good to share with his fellow co-workers. (Don’t worry team MLA, baked goods are coming your way.) So now we have them in our deep freeze, ready for Steve’s lunch pail on the days he’s been particularly nice to Jason.

This recipe comes from Martha Stewart’s website. It’s an original creation of Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito of Baked bakery in Brooklyn, NY. Jason altered the recipe substituting half the all-purpose flour with kamut flour and half the oil for melted butter to give the pies a nice buttery taste. If you don’t have kamut flour, feel free to stick to the original recipe. Instead of the cream cheese frosting Jason made a nice caramel frosting he found on epicurious and rolled the finished pies in toasted pecans.

The next time we’re in New York we’ll have to make a trip over to Brooklyn to try Matt and Renato’s original Whoopie pie. Until then, we’ll just keep dipping into our freezer until these treats are gone. And if anyone is wondering what to get us for Christmas, a copy of Baked’s cookbook would be a nice pick!

Pumpkin Whoopie Pies with Caramel Frosting

Makes 12 whoopie pies

  • FOR THE PUMPKIN WHOOPIE COOKIES
  • 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 1/2  cups Kamut flour
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
  • 1 tablespoon ground ginger
  • 1 tablespoon ground cloves
  • 2 cups firmly packed dark-brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1/2 cup melted butter
  • 3 cups pumpkin puree, chilled
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Frosting:

  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
  • 2 large egg yolks
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1 cup powdered sugar, sifted
  • 1 cup coarsely chopped toasted pecans

Directions

Make the cookies: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or a nonstick baking mat; set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, salt, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves; set aside. In another large bowl, whisk together brown sugar, oil, and melted butter until well combined. Add pumpkin puree and whisk until combined. Add eggs and vanilla and whisk until well combined. Sprinkle flour mixture over pumpkin mixture and whisk until fully incorporated.

Using a small ice cream scoop with a release mechanism, drop heaping tablespoons of dough onto prepared baking sheets, about 1 inch apart. Transfer to oven and bake until cookies are just starting to crack on top and a toothpick inserted into the center of each cookie comes out clean, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely on pan.

For frosting:
Stir sugar and 1/4 cup water in medium saucepan over medium-low heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to medium-high; boil until syrup turns deep amber, swirling pan and brushing down sides with wet pastry brush, 6 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat; add cream (mixture will bubble up). Stir over low heat until caramel bits dissolve. Whisk egg yolks in medium bowl. Very gradually whisk hot caramel into yolks. Cool to room temperature.

Using electric mixer, beat butter and salt in large bowl until smooth. Beat in caramel. Add powdered sugar and beat until smooth. Let stand at room temperature until thick enough to spread, about 1 hour.

Assemble the whoopie pies: Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. Transfer filling to a disposable pastry bag and snip the end. When cookies have cooled completely, pipe a large dollop of filling on the flat side of half of the cookies. Sandwich with remaining cookies, pressing down slightly so that the filling spreads to the edge of the cookies. Place pecans on plate. Roll edges of cakes in nuts.

Transfer to prepared baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate cookies at least 30 minutes before enjoying.

Cheers!