Venison Steak and Mushroom Pie

We found ourselves once again spending a Labor Day weekend inland where we poured thousands of samples of Scottish whisky at the Scottish Highland Games in Pleasanton. We have a lot of fun in our whisky ambassador roles and this festive crowd loves the stuff we pour. But what a trip the games are with their motley crew of die-hard clan encampments and gawkers and weekend kilt wearers. People are serious about their period costumes as evidenced by the many hearty souls who wandered around the hot dusty fairgrounds covered from head to toe in wool and fur and heavy fabrics.

Like all fairs, this annual event brings together an eclectic group of food vendors all seemingly hell bent on serving up the biggest, most gut busting-est portions of fried food imaginable. We saw corn dogs large enough to feed a family of four – seriously! And the fish & chips outlet piled up the fried potatoes in large paper baskets then topped them with what looked like runway-sized slabs of battered, deep fried fish. Never mind the turkey drumsticks and giant burgers or the towering chocolate dipped soft serve ice cream cones. In fact, never mind this belly stretching mess. You don’t go to the Highland Games for freakishly large portions of American carnival food. This is a Scottish event, after all. How about a little haggis? No? Then how about an English sausage in pastry dough and a nice ale to wash it down?

Our favorite “ethnic” option came from Heritage Foods, a purveyor of some of the tastiest British-style meat pies we’ve ever tasted. A standard on the California fantasy fair circuit, these tasty hand-held pastries are deliciously savory meals in a pie shell. We snacked on steak and mushroom pies that were served molten hot (a little tricky when you’re talking about hand-held food). The pie shell is tender and simply flavored making it the perfect accompaniment to the rich beef and mushroom gravy filling. Large chunks of tender beef and slices of mushroom are filling, not stuffing. We could have eaten several of these pies, but one a year is likely enough given the oily sheen the flaky pastry left on our fingers.

If you’re still eating Swanson’s frozen potpies, it’s time to reconsider the homemade meat pie. We haven’t quite figured out John Torode’s Beef cookbook (the English use parts of the cow we’ve never heard of and all the ingredients are listed in metric quantities and that’s just wrong) but the beautiful book offers several delicious iterations of this traditional British street food. We have wild Idaho Elk on hand and decided to improvise our own meat pies. Of course, you can substitute any red meat fit for braising. Give this one a try and then tell us if you still prefer the frozen factory pies from your supermarket. We think you’ll toss them out to make room for your own homemade pies!

The recipe that follows is very nearly an exact reproduction of Emeril Lagasse’s Steak and Mushroom pie recipe found over here on the Food Network’s site. We give all due credit to Emeril for this fantastic iteration of a classic English dish.

The Recipe: English-Style Venison Steak and Mushroom Pie

  • 6 ounces bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  • Olive oil
  • 1 1/2 pounds venison meat or beef chuck or sirloin, cubed
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • ½ teaspoon dried oregano
  • ½ teaspoon dried thyme
  • 1 1/2 cups chopped yellow onions
  • 2 teaspoons minced garlic
  • 8 ounces button mushrooms, wiped clean, stems trimmed, and sliced
  • salt  and pepper
  • 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 (12-ounce) bottle dark beer
  • 2 cups beef stock
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
  • 2 teaspoons fresh thyme
  • pastry dough
  • Phyllo (country style, store bought)
  • 3-4 tablespoons butter, melted

Directions

In a large skillet, cook the bacon over medium-high heat until browned. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.

Season the beef with the paprika, cayenne pepper, dried oregano, dried thyme, salt, and pepper. Pour off the bacon fat and add about 2 tablespoons olive oil and heat the pan over medium. When hot, add the beef (in batches, if necessary to prevent overcrowding). Cook until brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove from the pan and add the onions, adding more olive oil as needed. Cook, stirring, until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until wilted and starting to brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the salt, pepper, flour, and Worcestershire, and stir well. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the beer and stock, and stir to deglaze the pan. Bring to a boil and add the bay leaf, parsley, thyme, cooked bacon bits, and return the meat to the pan. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender, about 1 hour. Remove from the heat, discard the bay leaf, and adjust the seasoning, to taste.  Allow the beef stew to cool and then refrigerate at least four hours or over night.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Roll out the pastry crust on a lightly floured surface. Using a round cookie cutter, or the rim of a glass, cut out the pastry dough and place each round into a muffin tin. The pastry should be just large enough to to come up to the top of the muffin tin. Fill each pastry shell with the cold stew and refrigerate.

Unroll the phyllo dough and place a damp cloth over the top to keep from drying out. Using one sheet at a time, place on work surface and brush with melted butter. Add another sheet and brush again with melted butter, until you have used five sheets. If you are using regular phyllo use eight sheets. Using a slight smaller cookie cutter, cut out twelve tops. Place one on top of each pie and crimp around the edges. Don’t worry if each one is slightly different. Brush each top with the remaining butter

Put the pies in the oven and bake for 20-30 minutes or until golden on top. If the phyllo dough gets to brown cover with aluminum foil and continue to cook. You can also freeze the unbaked pies in the muffin pan for later use and bake right out of the freezer, just add 10-20 minutes more to the cooking time

Recipe: Pastry Dough

  • 1 1/3 cups all purpose flour
  • 1 stick butter, chilled and cut into 1/4 inch pieces
  • 1 tbsp ice water
  • 1 large egg
  • 1/8 tsp salt

Directions

Sift flour and salt into a bowl, add butter pieces and blend with your fingertips until the flour mixture looks like course meal. In a separate bowl, add egg and water and beat well. Add egg and water mixture to flour and stir with a fork until the dough just starts to come together. Pour dough out onto a sheet of plastic wrap and shape into a disk. Wrap the dough and refrigerate it for at least 30 minutes. Longer is better. This dough can remain refrigerated for up to 3 days before use.

Fish Tales

Shirley's Halibut catch.

Jason: We’ve all heard a fish tale or two about the one that got away. The elusive creature that struggles to free itself after a long, exhausting battle between man and fish. And just as it’s getting away you catch a glimpse of what just might be the biggest fish you’ll ever catch. That happened to me about a year ago. It was the first time I’ve fished since I was a small child. I was with Steve, his father, and my nephew. We went fishing on the Snake River and the fish that got away did so because Steve was too slow to get the net over to the edge of the boat. I don’t blame him since he was busy unhooking his own fish, but it would have been the biggest catch of the day—if he had just been fast enough.

Steve: Look, the fish was nice and all, but let’s face it, the rookie should NEVER go home with the biggest catch. Besides, I was distracted by my own catch and frankly, when there’s that much commotion on the boat, I tend to get a little confused. For what it’s worth, Jason got his revenge on Dad and me earlier this year. I’m cool with it!

Jason's Striped Bass catch.

Jason: Fast forward to spring of this year when, for Steve’s Father’s Day gift to his Dad, we all took a half-day trip out onto San Francisco Bay to do a little fishing. Steve’s mom and I came along for the ride. The morning came much too soon. We hauled out of bed at 4:30 AM to prepare for the trip. Unsure of what the day’s weather would bring, we popped a couple of dramamine and bundled up in what we thought would to be an acceptably warm series of layers only to find that we were a layer or two short of being comfortable. We arrived at Fisherman’s Wharf at 6:00 am and boarded the Lovely Martha. Roger, the deckhand greeted us and we soon met Captain Mike. The sun was nowhere to be found that morning as we pushed off for the bay. Our fishing companions for the day started putting on more layers as we headed out. Oh, how we wished we had put on that extra layer.

Steve: Underdressing for the cold outdoors is sort of our standard m.o. and this fishing trip was no exception. The wind and water chill you to the bone out on the open bay. The water wasn’t particularly rough that morning and nobody aboard seemed to suffer from motion sickness, but Jason and I remained as tightly wrapped in our layers as possible wishing we’d worn a thick wool sweater or an arctic parka!

Jason: About thirty minutes passed before we reached our first fishing location. Roger gave us instructions for baiting the hooks and placing the line in the water. Our bait consisted of live sardines and anchovies. The more experienced fishermen tried to find the largest bait in the holding tank. I was just taking what I could get my hands on. It took me a few tries before I got up the nerve to bait my own hook. Having never handled live bait before I was a bit squeamish about putting a hook through the tiny fish, but I soon got over the squeamish part and figured out that I needed to grab the largest wriggler possible.

Steve: I have to give credit to Jason for throwing himself into the whole messy process of fishing. We’ve become relatively soft urbanites over the years and the thought of pulling a fishing hook through the nose of a sardine is enough to send most of our friends running. The trick is holding on to the slippery little guys while completing the delicate procedure of threading that fish hook which, if you’re not careful, will slide just as easily into the flesh of your fingers. Jason figured it out right away.

Jason: It wasn’t the first catch of the day, but I did catch the first one that was large enough to keep and the only striped bass of the day. As I waited for the sinker to hit bottom I felt unsure of what was happening as Roger came over to assist. At first he thought I had snagged something but seconds later he handed the pole back to me and told me to reel it in, I had a fish. I positioned the end of the pole on my right thigh and gripped it in my left hand while reeling in the line with my right hand, steadily and quickly reeling the fish in. As it neared the boat Roger was there with the net to bring it in. This was the second fish I had caught in my life, and it was a beauty. After a few pictures of me holding the fish I was ready for more.

Steve: Of course Jason caught the coolest fish of the day. And why not? All the fishing dudes on the boat had plenty of their own fishing thrills to remember. This was Jason’s day to make his own fishing memories and watching him bring in that bass was pure fun. I think everyone on the boat got a kick out of everyone else’s fishing success that day.

Jason: My second catch was a Starfish the Captain nicked named “Patrick” (which we threw back into the bay after a everyone on the boat was finished touching it). Between catching the Bass and Starfish, Steve’s dad caught a Bat Ray that was sent back into the bay, and about an hour later Steve’s mom caught a halibut.

We continued to fish around the bay with little luck. I caught a halibut and was the big fisherman of the day with two catches, four if you count the starfish and a little bull head fish which also went back into the bay. All in all, five fish were caught by the fishermen (and women)  on the boat that morning two of which were my catches and one that Shirley caught.

Will we go back and fish on the Lovely Martha again? Absolutely! I think I’m hooked. I guess fishing is a bit like life, some days the big ones get away, other days you end up with not one, but two biggies. It all seems to equal out in the end.

Steve: While I would have loved to catch a fish or two on this trip, I’m happy to get to share the haul. We stored Jason’s catch in our freezer and have been enjoying several wonderful meals from those two fish. What follows is Jason’s take on a potato crusted fish dish I can’t get enough of. Any firm white fish will do, but we insist on wild fish and hope others will use the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch list as a guide for selecting the most sustainably harvested fish.

Potato crusted halibut with broccoli puree and roasted red onions

Potato Crusted Halibut with Broccoli Puree and Roasted Red Onion

Any seasonal vegetable puree will be a nice accompaniment to the fish. The roasted onion is optional but adds great flavor and a nice contrast of color.

Broccoli Puree

2 tablespoons Olive Oil

1 Onion, minced

1 bunch Broccoli, stocks peeled and cut into ¼ inch pieces, florets separated

1 cup Chicken or Vegetable Broth

4 tablespoons Butter

Salt and Pepper

In a skillet, heat the olive oil and sauté the onion until translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the broccoli stocks and cook 3-5 minutes per side. Add the florets and cover with a lid, if the pan is very dry add a little broth, for about 5 more minutes. Add the broth and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and transfer to a blender. You may need to do this in batches. Blend for 3 minutes or until well blended. Add the cold butter and continue to blend. Return to another pan and season with salt and pepper.

Potato Crusted Halibut

1 Large Red Potato

4 Halibut Filets

2 tablespoons Potato Starch

2 tablespoons Olive Oil

2 tablespoons Butter

Salt and Pepper

Cut the potato in half. Using a mandolin, thinly slice each potato half. Lay two or three potato slices on a workbench, slightly overlap each slice. Season the halibut filets with salt and pepper and rub 1 tsp, or so, potato starch on each side of the filet. Add the filet to the potato slice and top with more potato slices.

In a non-stick skillet, heat the olive oil and butter over medium heat. Once the foam from the butter has subsided, add the fish filets. Cook for about 5 minutes per side.

Roasted Red Onion

1 Red Onion

Olive Oil

Slice red onion in ¼ to ½ inch rounds. Brush with olive oil and grill using a grill pan for 3-5 minutes on each side or until caramelized. Can be prepared the day before, refrigerated, and then reheated before using.